There are some dog owners who will take great trouble in grooming their pets. They try and give them a new look every season, try and combine styles and accessories to help them look better, and treat them almost like their own little girl child. On the other hand, there are the others who could not really care less about the way their dog looks. They think the odd snip to keep the hair in check is enough.

No matter which of the two kinds of dog lovers you fall into, there can be no denying that every owner loves his pet. They want only the best for them, and each one has a different way of showing it. Regardless of the kind of dog you have or the way that you would like to have it groomed, it is important to know that every dog owner must have his own pair of dog grooming scissors.

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Several dog lovers and owners like to groom their dogs themselves, at least once in a while if not all the time. While there are owners who tend to use the regular pair of scissors to snip through their dog's hair, this is not the right choice for them. The kind, length, texture and strength of dog's hair is different from humans, and they need their own special grooming tools.

There are some owners who reconcile to the fact that their pets need their own products. They would get them their own combs, brushes, shampoo and even powder. Some would also consent to buying a pair of dog grooming scissors. Often, however, they only buy the first pair they see or what is most affordable.

It is important to buy a pair of dog grooming scissors that work for you. Buy a size which is comfortable not just for you to hold and use, but also for your dog as well. This is important, since a very small pair will just not be able to get through your dogs unruly shock, and a very large pair can hurt your gentle dog easily if he does not have a very thick coat.

Pay close attention to your dog grooming scissors just as you would to your own. But a good pair which will last you, even if it means paying a little extra. Buy a size which is convenient for both, and also a pair which will not hurt your dog gravely. This is in the best interest of both owner and faithful companion.

For more information please visit: http://www.theshearsdepot.com/dog-grooming-scissors.html
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A good pet owner would definitely pay attention to the cleaning and grooming of their domestic pets by making use of pet clippers. Taking a dog to a skilled dog groomer routinely may be costly and cumbersome. However, cutting your own pet's hair is not very hard at all and it can be a fantastic connecting experience for you and your pet.

If you have no experience in giving your dog a haircut, then it is vital to try to get help from anyone who may assist you. Do take help from an individual who ?s aware how to deal with dogs. Your pet dog should feel comfortable with being touched or held by your assistant.

Provide your pet a bath ahead of cutting his excess hairs. Combine a bit of pet shampoo in the small jug of water and wash his furs comprehensively. Then, dry him up with a soft towel and comb his hairs carefully. Utilize a clean brush or comb that is appropriate for your pet. Work out matted hair and remove tangles.

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Now that you're prepared to clip the hair, let us discuss a few basic suggestions for cutting the hair a dog. The majority of pets get annoyed when they listen to the noise of the hair clipper and may perhaps get unmanageable. This is when you will want someone to assist you to relax your pet.

In order to cut the hair of your pet appropriately, you must be sure that you're working with the appropriate type of blade. You'll need to pick the blades that are suitable for your pet's hair. In case your pet's furs are dense and long then you'll want to work with sharper blades. It is best that you understand the information in the manual that may have come with the clipper.

Gently start clipping the fur and keep from applying an excessive amount pressure. Be mindful not to push the blade too closely to your pet's body, in order to avoid any cuts that could harm your dog. The best way of clipping is by cutting off the hairs from the scalp first and then removing hairs from back and tail area.

Once you are done with your clippers, make use of a pair of scissors to complete the look for your dog. Clippers are ideally utilized tor remove your dog's body hair and you need to only use scissors for trimming the fur on your dog's face.

Grooming your dog is an exciting task. Doing hair trimming frequently will help you avoid tangled fur, which is a source of discomfort for your dog. Learning how to cut pet hairs with Pet hair clippers is an easy approach to get the fantastic appearance for your pet.
Learn a lot more about pet care and ways to decide on the perfect pet hair clippers by studying genuine consumer opinions on the net.
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Guinea pigs will not be aloof to humans if they have already stayed in captivity for a long period. Nowadays, these creatures are commonly made as pets because they are cute and calm. Then again, guinea pigs have sad stories, too. Most of them are used as testing creatures for drugs and products to know if those are safe for humans to use.

Also called cavies, guinea pigs can be found in almost all parts of the world. However, these cute creatures originally live in Andes and were brought by European traders in the cities in 1960s. South American inhabitants then make these animals as companions and they get meat on these animals. Many organizations are fighting for the rights of these animals that prevent making these animals as source of food or testing creatures.

Before buying guinea pigs, you have to take precautionary measures first. Find out if your city or state has laws against owning these creatures first. If your place doesn't prohibit owning them, then you can proceed to looking for its kind that fits your personality. Activists are encouraging many to get guinea pigs that are abandoned or rescued so as to keep them away from senseless selling.

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Once you have your cavies, you have to take good care of them. Make sure that you give importance to three things when you groom them, namely: nails, coat and teeth. These three things are what they usually use when they move and eat. When you groom them, check their nails. Make sure that these are kept in the right length. Too short or too long nails can make eating difficult for them. Also check for fungal infections. The coats of guinea pigs are important to keep them warm. Hence, it must be kept clean and checked for any problems on it. A coat disease can disrupt the normal body temperature of your pet and can lead to serious problems such as hypothermia. Aside for the nails and coat, also make sure that your pets don't have teeth problems for this can affect the way they eat.

Once you have cavies, you have to give them your love, care and respect. Many get guinea pigs but after few years, they neglect these creatures because they are already too big to hold. Kids may also only like these animals at first but will eventually grow tired playing with them. Therefore, if you are buying a guinea pig for your child, you must set your mind that you are adopting another child so that you can give it love and care.

Unlike any kind of pets, guinea pigs don't ask for too much care and attention. If you just provide them with the proper food, groom them regularly and allow them to exercise, you can be sure that they will stay fit and happy.
Thomas Cowellais an experiencedauthor on pets and animaltopics and just recentlywrotean important article on the http://jpjohnson.blog.com//">http://jpjohnson.blog.com//">fish tank hobby. Check out this site as well for more info on http://jpjohnson.blog.com/2011/05/13/simple-steps-in-cleaning-your-aquarium/">http://jpjohnson.blog.com/2011/05/13/simple-steps-in-cleaning-your-aquarium/">cleaning aquariums.
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Dogs need regular grooming as part of their health regimen. Depending on the type of coat your dog has, daily brushing might also be needed, but haircuts should definitely get placed on the agenda for your furry little friend. There are groomers who are experienced at doing this or you can do it yourself. There are now even more options for doing it yourself because you can use scissors or clippers and you can either do it at home or take your pet to a pet store that offers booths for you to use to groom your dog.

It’s not all just about looking good, though. When a dog’s hair gets too long, it can become a haven for fleas, ticks, or lice. Additionally, dog hair gets more matted and tangled as it gets longer and food and other stuff can get stuck into matted hair. If their hair is too long, our little ones can even trip over it or bump into things if it’s covering their eyes.  

One of the tricks to cutting your dog’s hair is to get him at the right height so that you can reach him and maneuver around him. It’s good to have a table at waist height or higher that will support your dog’s weight and allow you to hold him while grooming him. No matter which method you choose to use to cut your dog’s hair (scissors or clippers/trimmers), you need to keep one hand on your tools and one hand on the dog. They make grooming nooses that you can use to keep your pet still while you cut his hair.  Generally, you will want to cut length off the entire coat and ears and trim around its head, neck, and tail.

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Using Scissors

Start and complete one area of your dog until you get some practice and feel confident about it before moving on to a new area.

Talk to your dog while you’re cutting his hair, using a comforting voice to ease his fears.  

Comb out any mats or tangles before cutting his hair.  After the cut, brush your dog completely in order to remove any hair trimmings from remaining on his fur.

Angle the scissors when you are cutting.  This will keep you from cutting the hair too short, causing the neighborhood dogs to make fun of your pet.  

Some areas of your dog’s body require scissor-cutting, such as the around the dog’s ears and around the tail. Depending on the breed, you may also need to use scissors under the dog’s paws and around the throat.  

Using Clippers

Read the manual before you use the clippers.

Slowly introduce your dog to the sound of the clippers before you begin trimming his hair. Talk to your dog while you’re cutting his hair, using a comforting voice to ease his worries.  

Don’t push the clippers too firmly into your dog's back else it could cause razor burn to his back or cut his hair too short. Lean the blade flat on the area of the dog where you are working.

Comb out any mats or tangles before clipping his hair. After the trim, brush your dog completely in order to remove any hair trimmings from remaining on his fur.

Cut toward the direction of the hair. Don’t completely shave your dog because he could get sunburned without his fur to protect him.  

Investigate different blades for different dogs and experiment with different blades on different parts of your dog’s coat. Use clipper coolant to keep the blades from getting too hot.

Even if you still need to take your dog to the groomer, you will know how to give him an occasional trim at home if needed.
Tony is an avid pet lover and also writes articles for Discount-Pet-Mall: A site that sells pet supplies such as dog beds and dog bark collars.
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Visiting the vet can be a stressful event for many kitties, but by using a few easily applied techniques you can substantially decrease your cat's anxiety levels. The following are some tips that will make trips to the veterinary clinic much more pleasant!

Find a Feline Practitioner

?  Not all communities have feline specific veterinary clinics, but if you do live in a region in which there are cat clinics, it's imperative that you take advantage of this!

Your cat's stress levels while waiting in the reception area of the clinic will be substantially less if they aren't sitting 1 or 2 metres away from a loudly barking German shepherd dog!

?  To look for a feline specific clinic in your area, search the American Association of Feline Practitioners website for all AAFP registered clinics in North America. (http://www.catvets.com/findadoctor/findadoctor.aspx)

Find an ABVP Feline Practice Board-Certified Diplomate

?  Not all communities will have board-certified feline specialists either, but it's always worth looking because if there is an ABVP Diplomate (American Board of Veterinary Practitioners) in your area, it is another great resource for you and your kitty!

ABVP Feline Practice Diplomates are veterinarians who have completed the intensive ABVP species-specific (feline) clinical practice residency program (a minimum of two years), and who have successfully passed the ABVP Specialty Exam.

?  To search for a Feline Diplomate near you, visit the ABVP website and click on the "Find a Diplomate" button. (http://www.abvp.com/)

Have a cat carrier

?  Cat carriers tend to be inexpensive, although there certainly are some pricey models available these days as well. It's well worth investing in at least a regular, mainstream carrier for your cat, since over the course of your cat's lifetime you will need to travel with them repeatedly.

? Some cat owners bring their cats to the clinic by placing them inside gym bags, suitcases, cardboard boxes, laundry baskets, and other such improvised versions of cat carriers. This is an unwise decision for multiple reasons.

Part of an improvised carrier needs to remain open so the cat inside can breathe which means that they can easily escape from it. Cats will often seize the opportunity to jump out while they are being carried through clinic parking lots, which are highly dangerous places since they can easily be hit by cars.
Gym bags, duffel bags, purses, and other such items have no firm structure to them since they aren'tt built to support animals, unlike soft sided cat carriers. Without sturdy bottoms in their carrying bags cats feel unsupported and insecure which greatly increases stress levels and may even cause them to panic.
Additionally, improvised bags don't have nice familiar odors inside so they don't impart any sense of comfort to cats since they are not items which kitties use regularly in the home.

?  Carrying cats from the car to the clinic in one's arms is even more dangerous than using improvised carriers since cats can escape even more easily in this kind of scenario.

Cats are already tense and a bit frightened after experiencing the car ride to the clinic, and are prone to bolting – many clinics are situated on busy roads, and I have seen more than one cat unexpectedly get away from owners that were intending carry them into the clinic!

Have the RIGHT carrier 

? Carrier should be large enough that cats can comfortably stand up and turn around … you might be surprised to know how frequently cats arrive in clinics squeezed inside kennels that they outgrew 10 years prior when they entered adulthood!

? Carriers best suited for going to the vet are ones with snap tops that are easily removed.

These are extremely handy because cats can remain comfy and snug in the bottom half of the carrier through the majority of their exam, and can then be gently lifted out when better access is needed to complete the exam or perform procedures.
This method of extracting cats from their carriers is far less stressful than ‘dumping' them out of their carriers.

Keep your cat's carrier out & available for their use at all times

? Your cat's carrier should not be associated only with use for trips to the vet clinic and other stressful events such as air travel, otherwise your cat will associate the carrier with these negative experiences - upon seeing the carrier your cat's fear and anxiety levels will amplify instantaneously, irrespective of why you have brought it out of storage.

If the cat carrier only appears out of the front hall closet the day before a trip to the veterinarian's office, your cat will quickly learn that it's time to go into hiding until the carrier disappears from view once again! … Chasing your cat down and retrieve them from underneath the bed only results in heightened stress levels for both of you before you've even left the home, and can also result in missed veterinary appointments.
Place a comfortable pad or blanket in the bottom of the carrier.
Your cat should consider their carrier a safe haven, a place that they frequent for little cat naps - the carrier should be associated with a sense of security and their home environment so that when your kitty travels in their carrier they know that they are inside their safe haven.

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What to put inside the carrier (aside from your cat!)

?  As mentioned above, the carrier should be a comfortable environment with a familiar cushion or blanket inside.

Many cats like to burrow themselves and hide under their blankets when they are stressed, so this not only provides them with familiar smells, but also allows them to retreat underneath when they are stressed.

?  Provide some treats and familiar toys in the carrier to create a positive association with being inside the carrier.

This should be done not only when traveling to the vet clinic, but also on a regular basis at home.

Pheromones!

?  There is now a synthetic version of cats' 'happy pheromone.' Kitties naturally produce this happy pheromone within skin glands that are located by their cheeks.

When cats are happy and content they rub up against people and nearby objects, depositing their happy cat facial pheromones all around them.
The synthetic form of this molecule is called Feliway, and is fairly inexpensive.
Use of the synthetic version can greatly decrease cats' anxiety levels while traveling!

?   To use Feliway:

Spray the entire inner surface of the carrier as well as the blanket inside, with Feliway, starting 24 hours before the veterinary visit.
Repeat this at least four times during the 24 hour period prior to the visit in order to build up a good coating of Feliway in the carrier.
Don't spray the carrier and place your cat immediately within it – leave at least 15 minutes because alcohol is one of the carrier molecules in Feliway and should have time to evaporate since cats don't enjoy the scent of alcohol!

Desensitize your cat to car travel

?  A significant stressor when bringing a cat to the vet is the transportation which leads to their arrival at the clinic … car rides often put cats into panic mode long before they even set paw inside the clinic itself!

Car rides are an infrequent experience for most cats. Cars are also noisy and mobile. Many cats don't cope well with new situations, let alone situations involving engine noises and fast, unpredictable movements.
Car travel is like an overwhelming sensory assault to cats; it creates simultaneous auditory, visual, olfactory, and tactile stimuli and there is no time during which cats can acclimate to the situation. This kind of travel experience creates negative associations in cats' minds, and they will not relish future repeats of the experience!

?  To help your cat deal more effectively with transportation the solution is helping your cat slowly adjust to the experience in small increments. Once your cat is accustomed to being in the car, take your cat for car rides that don't end up at the veterinary office so they don't automatically associate car trips with vet visits!

Ideally cat to are acclimatized to travel in kittenhood, but later in life is still better than never.
Place your cat in your car without starting the engine. Don't go anywhere, simply allow your cat to explore a bit and just sit in his or her carrier, becoming familiar with the car's appearance and smells. Provide lots of treats, praise, and positive attention.
Once your cat has been inside the car multiple times and seems fairly comfortable with it, then place your cat in the car and start the engine. Again, do not go anywhere, just allow your kitty to understand that the noise of the engine is not a threat, it is simply a background noise.
Once your cat is accustomed to the noise of the engine and the feel of its vibrations, go for your first short car ride. Keep your cat safely enclosed in their carrier, take turns slowly and gently, and do not open the windows or have music playing. Drive slowly around the block or just around the parking lot and that will be enough for your cat's first ride.
Next, take your kitty for a longer drive. Again, go slowly, keep the windows closed and the car radio off. The motion of the car ride alone, combined with the sight of other vehicles on the road and the traffic noise will be more than enough for your cat to contend with.
Again, reward your cat with lots of treats, praise, and stroking once the drive is over but you are still in the vehicle. When you return home, give your cat one of their favourite foods – tuna, liver bits, cooked turkey, or whatever they love most!

?  Once your cat knows how to cope with travel it won't be a major stressor when you need to transport them to the vet clinic – it will simply be one of many little rides they have experienced and they'll know that there will be a delicious meal awaiting them upon their return home!

Your cat's demeanor inside the vet clinic

?  When a cat is in a clinic they may behave in ways they have never behaved at home. They may growl, hiss, swat, be generally uncooperative, or even try to bite. These actions do NOT mean that they are "bad cats" – they are simply frightened and are reacting to what they perceive as a scary situation with natural defensive feline behaviour.

Some owners admonish their cats if they believe their cat is 'misbehaving' in a veterinary office. Some go so far as to yell aggressively, tap or smack their cat on the nose or head, or they even spank their cat's rear end. This should NEVER ever be done.
This form of ‘discipline' may be a reaction to owners' embarrassment about their cat's behaviour, but it's critical to know that these are normal cat behaviours and veterinarians understand this better than anyone! There is no need to apologize or feel embarassed about feisty cat behaviour because vets will not think these frisky cats are "bad cats" – veterinarians deal with fractious kitties on a daily basis and are trained to handle scared, aggressive cats in a safe and gentle manner.
Yelling at a cat, or worse, tapping or smacking them, only serves to heighten the their stress levels, and is always a BAD idea. Yelling at and smacking a cat makes the kitty even more frightened and reactive - not only are they now in a foreign environment but their one source of comfort and familarity, their owner, has become scary and foreign as well.
'Punishing' a cat makes the veterinarian's job of handling the frightened cat even harder. Additionally, it creates a negative memory of the clinic in the cat's mind which means that the next visit will be even more stressful than the last one, and the cat may behave even more defensively.

?  The best action to take if your cat is upset, is to pet and reassure them when your veterinarian requests that you help them by providing positive distractions during their physical exam. Otherwise, it's best not to interfere until your veterinarian is finished. Once the exam is over, lots of praise, treats, and positive attention are warranted.

Social time at the clinic!

?  An excellent way of teaching your cat that a visit to the clinic is not a scary event, is to bring your cat in for visits when he or she does not require an exam or procedure of any kind.

Call your veterinary clinic in advance to ensure that it is a good time to visit – you do not want to impede work happening at the clinic if they are extremely busy, and you also do not want the visit to be too overwhelming for your kitty if it is a bit chaotic at the time of your planned visit. For instance, mornings when surgical procedures are being done may be a convenient time – the clinic will not be busy in the waiting room and exam rooms, and your kitty may be allowed to spend lots of time exploring the reception area and elsewhere.
Bring some food along for your cat, and feed him or her in one of the exam rooms if possible. Play with some toys and some catnip, and see if one or two staff members of the clinic are available to play with your cat for a short period of time.

Practice makes perfect

?  Train your cat to accept certain kinds of physical manipulation that are similar to routine procedures done at veterinary clinics. If your cat is used to these procedures at home, then veterinary exams will be less stressful and will be better tolerated by your cat.

Slowly teach your kitty to accept having their paws touched, nails unsheathed, being groomed, having their teeth brushed, ears cleaned, and having their belly's touched.
Start practicing with your cat as soon as you can - from kittenhood ideally, but training your cat in adulthood can work as well.

To read Dr. Ko's article at www.catdoctorko.com, please click here.

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. © 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Dr. Ko is a cat lover! Although she is trained in all areas of veterinary medicine, she has sought out a professional career that allows her to work exclusively with felines. While in school, Dr. Ko was a Deans Honor List Student throughout the four years of her undergraduate BSc (Bachelor of Science in Biology) degree at the University of New Brunswick, and the four years during which she completed her DVM (Doctorate of Veterinary Medicine) degree at the Atlantic Veterinary College in beautiful Prince Edward Island. Dr. Ko earned many scholarships in the course of her post-graduate education, including the Bayer Companion Animal Veterinary Medicine Award. She also published an article she wrote while still a student in a medical journal, the CVJ (Canadian Veterinary Journal), in 2007. A licensed veterinarian who works exclusively with cats, Dr. Ko is a member of the AAFP (American Association of Feline Practicioners), the CVMA (Canadian Veterinary Medical Assocation), VIN (the Veterinary Information Network), and is also a certified NEW (Nuclear Energy Worker). Dr. Ko continues to split her time between working in private practice at two different feline veterinary clinics, as well as writing and publishing articles on animal wellness and welfare, and, of course, dedicating herself to the continued development and expansion of the www.catdoctorko.com website and its community of cat lovers. Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website. She continues to be an advocate for the humane treatment of all animals, and of course, the health and wellness of cats everywhere! 
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A kennel is the name given to any structure or shelter for dogs. A boarding kennel is a doghouse run, or other small structure in which a dog is kept. This is a formal establishment for the propagation of purebred dogs, whether or not the animals are actually housed in a separate shed, the garage, a state-of the-art facility, or the family dwelling. Breeding kennels are heavily regulated and must follow rules laid down by the breed club, the kennel council, and relevant legislation. A boarding kennel name or kennel prefix is a name associated with each breeding kennel: it is the first part of the registered name of a pedigreed dog which was bred there.

Pet grooming refers to both the hygienic care and cleaning of a dog, as well as a process by which a dog's physical appearance is enhanced for showing or other types of competition. A dog groomer (or simply "groomer") is a person who earns their living grooming dogs.

Grooming is an important part of dog care. Depending on the breed, age, and health of the dog, grooming may be a daily activity. It is important to note that while many dogs shed others (such as the Poodle), do not shed (see Mount) as profusely, and require grooming by a professional every 6–8 weeks maximum.

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The main reasons for daily grooming include:

Decreased chance of various health problems, such as thrush, scratches, and other skin problems
General cleanliness of the dog
Monitoring of the dog's health by checking for cuts, heat, swelling, lameness, or changes in temperament, all of which could be indicative of illness

If your dog has a skin, ear or nail condition, follow your veterinarian's instructions regarding grooming your dog. It is also important to use the appropriate Grooming tools. Here are some dogs grooming basics to remember. Choose the right tools and follow these guidelines.

Long-haired dogs usually require daily brushing to prevent matting and tangling of hair.
Medium-haired dogs may be prone to matting and tangles and should be brushed at least weekly.
Short-haired dogs can typically go up to a month in-between brushing.

Bathing is another important step in keeping your pet groomed properly. This is a simple matter of hosing them down, rubbing in some shampoo and then rinsing them off. But the basics are simple, wash, cut or brush, clip and flea control.

Cleaning Ears

You should check your dogs ears periodically while dog grooming. Dogs with droop ears are especially susceptible to fungus, waxy ears, and ear mites. Check them at least weekly. Infected dog ears can lead to further complications. Your dog may cause an ear hematoma by breaking a blood vessel while shaking his head in response to the discomfort.

Hair Brushing

Brushing dogs is the most time intensive part in dog grooming. Do not press too hard with your wire slicker brush to avoid scraping the skin and giving your dog brush burn.

Bathing

Bathing dogs outdoors in warm weather may be the best place, because it is the messy part in dog grooming. Use a mild dog shampoo and start bathing the dog's body and legs. The dogs head should be shampooed last, paying particular care to ensure that no shampoo gets into his eyes, ears, and nose. Cover the dog's eyes with your hand while pushing the head down. You can try using cotton in the ears, or cover the ear hole with your thumb while bathing the dog. Leave the shampoo three or four minutes on the dog and then rinse, rinse, rinse. This removing of the shampoo is the most important part in bathing dogs.

When you are done bathing, towels dry the dog by blotting and pressing the towel against the coat. Once again, comb the coat through before drying to make sure there are no tangles or mats.

Canine Elite specializes in the training, grooming, boarding, pedigree, vet service and lodging of dogs and cats in their very own pet suites. Canine Elite strives to be a place of joy for our guests. For more visit- http://www.canineelite.com
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Your pet is a very important member of your family.  As you already know, one of the responsibilities as a pet owner is to provide for their animal's health and well-being.  Included in caring for your pet's health is proper diet, daily exercise, regular visits to the veterinarian, and consistent grooming.  There are many reputable professional groomers that will take excellent care of your dog; however, there are things you can also do at home to keep your pet looking, feeling and smelling nice.  Here are some excellent grooming tips from a professional groomer that you can do at home:

Clean your dog or cat's teeth regularly with a special toothbrush and paste made especially for them.  Just like us, your pet's health, good or bad, can be seen by the condition of their teeth.  Poor diet can cause tartar build up which can cause many other health conditions in your pet, resulting in costly veterinarian bills.

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Clean your pet's ears with a soft cloth especially for those dogs that have long ears such as cocker spaniels, beagles, hound dogs, etc.  If dirt or water gets into their ears, it can cause ear infections resulting in the fun job of putting drops in their ears. 

Trim your dogs nails at least every month or so.  There are excellent nail trimmers made especially for dogs with safety guards so you can't trim to close and hurt your pet.  How often you trim your pet's nails depends on the weight of your pet and how much exercise they get.  "Couch Potatoes" will need their nails trimmed more often than "Runners".

It is recommended to bath your dog approximately every 6-8 weeks using special shampoo and conditioner made for dogs.  Bathing your dog too often can cause dry skin, unless it has gotten into a mud puddle or tangled with a skunk.  The natural oils in their skin are needed for a smooth coat. 

Most dogs and cats shed excess hair and fur on a regular basis, especially during the warmer summer months.  So brushing or combing your pet every other day to reduce the shedding is recommended.  There are several excellent deshedding tools such as the Furminator, Furbuster and Bamboo Rake to consider.  They come in several sizes appropriate for the size of your pet.  A comb such as the Untangler, which is a professional groomers' favorite, is needed for those hard to reach areas such as behind the ears and under the legs.

Once you have the tools and products you need to groom your pet at home, it will be easy to make grooming a part of your daily routine with your pet.  Your pet will look forward to their regular brushing with a deshedding tool since it gives them lots of attention from you.  Taking regular care of your furry family member will ensure many years of a healthy, happy pet. 

Find information on the best deshedding tools such as the Furminator at www.desheddingtool.net.
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In the 1950s in England, a stray cat gave birth to a litter of kittens with a curly coat. Through crossbreeding and inbreeding, this interesting trait was maintained, resulting in today's Devon Rex. It was once thought that the same mutation caused this and the Cornish Rex mutation (the fine, curly coat), but genetic testing has shown that this is not the case, making the Devon Rex a separate and distinct breed of cat. Due to crossbreeding, Devon Rexes come a wide variety of colors including black, white, blue, red, cream, chocolate, lilac, and caramel. They can also have various markings and patterns such as smoke, tabby, tortie, bi-color, tri-color and pointed. The Devon Rex coat can also come in a variety of coverings.

Some Devon Rexes are completed covered in the soft fur and others only have the occasional tuft. Some coats are curlier than others but all are soft and thin. Though Devon Rexes do not shed nearly as much as other breeds that are more densely coated, they do have some hair on them and will, therefore, shed. This makes them more suitable for those with allergies, but they are not a hypoallergenic cat.

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Devon Rexes, on average, will weigh about six to nine pounds and are muscular. They will live about thirteen years. This outgoing cat is a performer. Devon Rexes like being the center of attention and will engage in many antics including jumping to high places, riding on the shoulders of their human companions and stealing food. Despite their antics, Devon Rexes are good family pets and adaptable to most situations.

Though active, they do well in apartment settings. Due to the delicate nature of their hair, a Devon Rex should be kept indoors. The sparse coat is insufficient to protect it from sunburn or cold. Grooming is done infrequently but when done, must be done carefully as the hair will break easily. Although very healthy, Devon Rexes can inherit genetic problems, such as cardiomyopathy, luxating patella, hip dysplasia, and spasticity.

There is a website that has great information on Devon Rex and most other breeds of cats. It has details that pertain to a cat breeds health, grooming, living conditions, best food choices and more, the website is called: Dog And Cat Facts, and can be found at this url:

http://www.dogandcatfacts.com

By Robert W. Benjamin

Copyright © 2006

You may publish this article in your ezine, newsletter on your web site as long as it is reprinted in its entirety and without modification except for formatting needs or grammar corrections.
Robert W. Benjamin has been in the software business on the internet for over 5 years, and has been producing low-cost software for the past 25+ years. He first released products on the AMIGA and C64 computer systems in the late 1970's-80's.
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There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family. He is trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you).

This is known as resource guarding, and though it may sound innocuous, there's actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his kibble to himself. He is not comfortable with the treatment/handling he is getting from you or other members of the family.

What is resource guarding? Resource guarding is pretty common among dogs. The term refers to overly-possessive behavior on behalf of your dog: for instance, snarling at you if you approach him when he's eating, or giving you "the eye" (a flinty-eyed, direct stare) if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him.

All dogs can be possessive from time to time as it is in their natures. Sometimes they are possessive over things with no conceivable value, inedible trash, balled up pieces of paper or tissue, old socks. More frequently, however, resource-guarding becomes an issue over items with a very real and understandable value such as food and toys.

Why does it happen?

It all boils down to the issue of dominance. Let me take a moment to explain this concept. Dogs are pack animals. This means that they are used to a very structured environment. In a dog-pack, each individual animal is ranked in a hierarchy of position and power (or "dominance") in relation to every other animal.

Each animal is aware of the rank of every other animal, which means he knows specifically how to act in any given situation (whether to back down, whether to push the issue, whether to muscle in or not on somebody else's turf, etc etc).

To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well. This is where it gets interesting: if your dog perceives himself as higher up on the social totem-pole than other family members, he is going to get cheeky.

If he's really got an over inflated sense of his own importance, he'll start to act aggressively. Why? Because dominance and aggression are the exclusive rights of a superior-ranked animal. No underdog would ever show aggression or act dominantly to a higher-ranked animal (the consequences would be dire, and he knows it!)

Resource guarding is a classic example of dominant behavior. Only a higher-ranked dog (a "dominant" dog) would act aggressively in defense of resources. To put it plainly, if it was clear to your dog that he is not, in fact, the leader of the family, he'd never even dream of trying to prevent you from taking his food or toys because a lower-ranking dog (him) will always go along with what the higher-ranking dogs (you and your family) say.

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So what can I do about it? The best treatment for dominant, aggressive behavior is consistent, frequent obedience work, which will underline your authority over your dog. Just two fifteen-minute sessions a day will make it perfectly clear to your dog that you are the boss, and that it pays to do what you say.

You can make this fact clear to him by rewarding him (with treats and lavish praise) for obeying a command, and isolating him (putting him in "time-out", either outside the house or in a room by himself) for misbehavior.

- If you are not entirely confident doing this yourself, you may wish to consider enlisting the assistance of a qualified dog-trainer.

Brush up on your understanding of canine psychology and communication, so that you understand what he's trying to say this will help you to nip any dominant behaviors in the bud, and to communicate your own authority more effectively.

Train regularly and keep obedience sessions short and productive (no more than fifteen minutes and maybe two or three of these per day).

Why doesn't my dog like to be handled?

All dogs have different handling thresholds. Some dogs like lots of cuddles, and are perfectly content to be hugged, kissed, and have arms slung over their shoulders (this is the ultimate "I'm the boss" gesture to a dog, which is why a lot of them won't tolerate it.)

Others are usually the ones not accustomed to a great deal of physical contact from a very young age and aren't comfortable with too much full-body contact and will get nervy and agitated if someone persists in trying to hug them.

Another common cause of handling-induced aggression is a bad grooming experience such nail-clipping and bathing which are the two common culprits.

When you clip a dog's nails, it's very easy to "quick" him and that is, cut the blood vessel that runs inside the nail. This is extremely painful to a dog, and is a sure-fire way to cause a long-lasting aversion to those clippers.

Being washed is something that a great many dogs have difficulty dealing with and a lot of owners, when confronted with a wild-eyed, half-washed, upset dog, feel that in order to complete the wash they have to forcibly restrain him.

This only adds to the dog's sense of panic, and reinforces his impression of a wash as something to be avoided at all costs and if necessary, to defend himself from it with a display of teeth and hackles.
Can I "retrain" him to enjoy being handled and groomed?
In a word, yes.

It's a lot easier if you start from a young age and handle your puppy a lot, get him used to being touched and rubbed all over. Young dogs generally enjoy being handled and it's only older ones who haven't had a lot of physical contact throughout their lives that sometimes find physical affection difficult to accept.

Practice picking up his paws and touching them with the clipper; practice taking him into the bath (or outside, under the faucet or whatever works for you, but warm water is much more pleasant for a dog than a freezing spray of ice-water!), and augment the process throughout with lots of praise and the occasional small treat.

For an older dog that may already have had several unpleasant handling/grooming experiences, things are a little more difficult. You need to undo the damage already caused by those bad experiences, which you can do by taking things very slowly and with an emphasis on keeping your dog calm.

The instant he starts to show signs of stress stop immediately and let him relax. Try to make the whole thing into a game: give him lots of praise, pats, and treats.

Take things slowly. Don't push it too far and if you get nervous, stop.

Dogs show aggression for a reason. They're warning you to back off, or else! If your dog just can't seem to accept being groomed, no matter how much practice you put in, it's best to hand the job over to the professionals.

Your vet will clip his nails for you (make sure you tell him first that he gets aggressive when the clippers come out, so your vet can take the necessary precautions!). As far as washing and brushing goes, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry. For a small fee, you can get your dog washed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog's reaction to the experience first!)
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When working at a skilled nursing facility years ago, I encountered an older gentleman whom all of the staff considered mute. He never spoke - not to the nurses, the caregivers, activities staff - not a word to anyone. One day, a volunteer brought in her therapy dog, and when the dog came to this man, his eyes lit up, he smiled, and began talking to the dog without no hesitation whatsoever. When the dog left, the man's demeanor faded, and did not speak again until the dog's next visit. Our team quickly realized that the dog was a key, not only to this gentleman's speech, but to his overall happiness and well-being. We soon made arrangements to have our own therapy dog in the facility, which delighted residents, family and staff alike.

Most older adults feel safe and relaxed when a friendly animal is present. These pets are uniquely able to provide seniors with the unconditional love that animals bring to our lives each day in a variety of settings.

According to 2nd Chance 4 Pets, an organization in Northern California that works to reduce the number of pets euthanized throughout the United States due to the death or disability of their human companions, including a pet as part of your family brings huge health benefits, especially for those who are over 65 years of age. Some results from studies on older adults and animals include:

• The simple act of holding an animal can relieve symptoms of depression, lower blood pressure, and even decrease surgical patients' healing times.

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• The long-term survival rates of heart attack victims who had a pet are significantly longer than for those who did not.

• Widows who have cats are better off medically during their first year, which is a critical stress time, than widows who do not.

• Pet owners have lower triglyceride and cholesterol levels than non-owners.

• One year after having a myocardial infarction, dog owners were more likely to be still living.

• Dog walking, pet grooming, and even petting provide increased physical activity that strengthens the heart, improves blood circulation, and slows the loss of bone tissue.

2nd Chance 4 Pets believes that the most serious disease for older persons is not cancer or heart disease – it's loneliness. Love is the most important health tonic we have, and pets are one of nature's best sources of love. As a pet owner myself, I'm 100% in agreement.

To find out if your local Always Best Care coordinator has information on senior companion pet programs in your area, contact any of the individually owned and operated Always Best Care offices located throughout the country. To find the Always Best Care Senior Services office nearest you, please visit www.alwaysbestcare.com.

Tonja Edelman, MSW, is a Franchise Operations Trainer at Always Best Care Senior Services, and a former Deputy Public Conservator. Through its network of more than 125 independently owned and operated franchises, Always Best Care provides non-medical in-home care, assisted living placement and skilled home health care for seniors across the country.

Always Best Care Senior Services

Always Best Care Senior Services (www.alwaysbestcare.com) is based on the belief that having the right people for the right level of care means peace of mind for the client and family. Always Best Care Senior Services has assisted over 25,000 seniors, representing a wide range of illnesses and personal needs. This has established the company as one of the premier providers of in-home care, assisted living placement assistance, and skilled home health care.

Since 1996, Always Best Care has provided exceptional in home care services, assisted living community, residential placement, skilled caregiver, elderly care, dementia care facilities, elder care and home health care for seniors.
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